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Creme to Powder eyeshadow formulation

model wearing creme to powder eyeshadow

Creme-to-Powder eyeshadow is a relative newcomer to the cosmetics market.  It has the lasting power of previous generation’s creme shadows, but without the creasing and goopy feel. It’s a semi-solid shadow that can be applied using your finger or a foam applicator, but best results are achieved by using a brush.

When loading the brush, it has the resistance and texture of creme or cosmetic crayon base, but it applies like a powder. On the skin the product retains the powdered feel, while giving a long-lasting wear and the vibrant colors that were previously only a factor of cremes and cosmetic crayons.

Note that colors of creme shadows can be much more dramatic on skin than powdered colors, because of the color load on the applicator.  It may take some practice to get a subtle application.

These ingredients are not available at the corner store, but are readily available from suppliers who service the boutique and hobby manufacturing markets. (The names in italics are the brands that I used in testing, but other brands are available and may suit your purpose or budget better. The non-italic names are the INCI designation for the ingredient, which may make it easier to source for supply.)

Cream-to-Powder Eyeshadow

Phase Phase A

Tegosoft OP (Evonik Goldschmidt) (Octylpalmitate)
16.0
Tegosoft CO (Evonik Goldschmidt) (Cetyl octanoate)
14.0
Carnauba Wax 2442L
4.7
Abil Wax 2434 (Evonik Goldschmidt) (Stearoxy dimethicone)
6.0
Antaron V-220 (PVP/Eicosene copolymer)
1.0
Tegosoft SH (Evonik Goldschmidt) (Stearyl heptanoate)
16.0
Covabead LH85 (Polymethylmethacrylates)
6.0

Phase Phase B

Aerosil 200 (Evonik Degussa) (Silica)
3.0
Oxynex K liquid (PEG8 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, citric acid)
0.1
Preservative
q.s.



Phase C

Talc Covasil 4.05 (Talc and dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate)
6.0
Pemulen TR-2 (Acylates/C10-30 acyl acrylate crosspolymer)
2.0
Tegolon 12-10 (Evonik Goldschmidt) (Nylon-12)
2.0
Dryflo Pure (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate)
6.0
Pigments (Mica/iron oxides/titanium dioxide/mica)
15.2
Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 (Mica, titanium dioxide)
2.0

Procedure:

  1. Melt phase A at 85-87°C.
  2. Once phase A is completely melted, add phase B and homogenize for 15 minutes.
  3. Add Phase C and blend thoroughly.
  4. Pour or scoop into packaging while still warm.
  5. Smooth out tops with spatula when solidified.

Pigment Blend Suggestions (to match the model above):

Gold: 50% Sunprizma Super Gold; 50% Sunpearl Gold.

Dark Purple: 20% SunPrizma Concord Crush; 42% SunPrizma Cherry Marmalade; 22%; Spectraflex Focus Violet; 16% Sunprizma Sapphire Night.

Posted in Cosmetics, Formulas, Make Your Own.

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More natural sanitizer formulas

Earlier I posted a formula for a quickie hand sanitizer, but a couple of folks have mentioned that they’re not too hip on the smell, or they would prefer a “spicier” or “fruity” note rather than a minty note.  So, here’s a couple more formulas to keep you safe and sanitized during the cold and flu season.

Formula 1 “Ring Around The Rosie

  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 1 teaspoon perfumer’s alcohol
  • 4 ml Cinnamon Bark Essential Oil
  • 4 ml Clove Bud Oil
  • 4 ml Rosemary Essential Oil (Avoid use during pregnancy. Not for use by people with high blood pressure or a history of epilepsy.)
  • 4 ml Lemon Essential Oil
  • 4 ml Narrow Leaf Eucalyptus Essential Oil  (Narrow Leaf essential oil has a more pleasing aroma than the more common Blue Gum Eucalyptus. Due to its pleasant smell and its valuable chemical constituents, this is my favorite Eucalyptus oil. Although it has strong antiviral properties, it is also gentler than Eucalyptus globulus, and therefore useful in aromatherapy preparations for children and the elderly.)

*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use.

This type of formula dates back to the 15th century. Reportedly, thieves covered themselves in something similar so they could steal from plague victims and dead bodies without catching the disease. Independent lab tests of this oil blend shows a %90 kill rate on micrococcus luteus within 12 minute diffusion and a %99.3 reduction after 20 minutes. Pseudomonas aeruginosa – a major agent of nosocomial infection, showed %99.96 kill rate after 12 minutes of diffusion.

With this formula, you’ll need to shake the bottle each and every time you use it because essential oils and water don’t naturally mix. Cinnamon Essential Oil can be irritating to skin. If any irritation occurs, double the water (use 6 Tablespoons) to decrease irritation. If irritation continues, you can try switching  out the Cinnamon Leaf EO with Tea Tree Essential Oil, or try using a carrier oil instead of a water blend.

I generally make this formula using a light oil carrier, such as sunflower or evening primrose, instead of water/alcohol.  It blends better, but is a much heavier recipe and cannot be easily used in a spray bottle.

Formula 2

  • 1 tablespoon perfumer’s alcohol (You can use rubbing alcohol, but it has an added fragrance that I think is kinda nasty.)
  • 3 tablespoons Aloe Vera Water/Juice
  • 2 ml Cinnamon Leaf EO
  • 3 ml Tea Tree EO
  • 3 ml Lemon or Lemongrass EO

*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use. Since Alcohol is a natural emulsifier, this recipe will turn white and not require shaking each and every time before use. Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil can be irritating to skin. If any irritation occurs, double the liquid (use 6 Tablespoons) to decrease irritation. If irritation continues, switch out the Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil with Tea Tree Essential Oil. This blend is based on the research in the Journal of Cranio-Maxillofacial Surgery (2009) available online at www.sciencedirect.com

Formula 3
3 tablespoons Aloe Vera Gel or Liquid
5 ml Lemon EO
4 ml Tea Tree EO
Optional: 2 ml White Thyme Essential Oil

*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use. Can also be used on places like doorknobs, telephones and other common germ vector locations.

Formula 4
1 ml White Thyme Essential Oil
1 ml Litsea Essential Oil
2 ml Orange Essential Oil
1/2 C. Aloe Vera
1/2 Teaspoon Lecithin

*Directions: Combine the lecithin and the essential oils together in a small container. Slowly pour the essential oil mixture into the aloe vera while stick blending the mixture. This will naturally help emulsify the mixture (think salad dressing). Lecithin is typically found in health food stores and is a natural emulsifier. This blend will be thick like lotion. Spray bottles won’t work with this formula.

Here are some great research links:  Fungus Killed by Essential Oils, Antimicrobial Essential Oils {PDF}, Antibacterial Soaps, Tea Tree oil antimicrobial, Tea Tree Oil & Fungus, Tea Tree Oil.

Posted in Bath and Beauty, Essential Oils, Formulas, Make Your Own.

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Risks from Toxic Ingredients in Cosmetics

by Dr. Samuel S. Epstein.

The Cancer Prevention Coalition and Organic Consumers Association warn of major risks to health from the great majority of cosmetics and personal care products.

As the Obama Administration works with Congress to pass comprehensive health care reform legislation this year, President Barack Obama told reporters at the July 10 Group of 8 news conference, “We have to bend the cost curve on health care, and there are some very specific ways of doing that – - game changers that incentivize quality as opposed to quantity, that emphasize prevention.”

Most cosmetics and personal care products on store shelves today contain five major categories of toxic ingredients. These are: frank carcinogens (cancer causing); precursors of or “hidden” carcinogens; endocrine or hormonally disruptive; penetration enhancers; and allergens.
Continued…

Posted in Bath and Beauty, Cosmetics, Environment, IndustryNews, News, perfume.

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Cosmetic Ingredients S-Z

The final installment of  a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.
Continued…

Posted in Bath and Beauty, Cosmetics, Definitions, Essential Oils, Formulas, Make Your Own.

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Ingredient listing

Sheesh, pulling all of this together has taking way longer, and taken up a whole lot more space than I’d anticipated.  On the plus side…we’re almost through the list.  Yay.  Any updates will be on the Cosmetic Ingredient Page, rather than doing this list again.

That said; if you have an ingredient that you’d like to see researched that I haven’t addressed, please feel free to ping me here or twitter or email or carrier pigeon, and I’ll be sure to look into it for you.

Posted in Soap.


Cosmetic Ingredients N-R

A continuation of  a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.
Continued…

Posted in Bath and Beauty, Cosmetics, Essential Oils, Make Your Own, Soap, manufacturing.

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Cosmetics Ingredients I-M

A continuation of  a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.
Continued…

Posted in Bath and Beauty, Cosmetics, Make Your Own, Soap, manufacturing.

Tagged with .