A list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.

Albumen: Egg white. A source of pure protein. It has a soothing and tightening effect on the skin.

Algae extract: Rich in the same vital nutrients, trace elements, and amino acids present in human blood plasma, allowing it to penetrate the skin more thoroughly than most other ingredients. It speeds the elimination of toxins from cells and is a natural cellular renewal
ingredient. It also helps to nourish and remineralize the skin.

Algin: A gelatinous substance derived from seaweed. It acts as an emulsifier and thickening agent.

Allantoin: A compound that occurs naturally in wheat sprouts, tobacco seed, comfrey, and sugar beets, or it may be derived synthetically from uric acid. It is an effective healing agent that helps to promote cellular renewal, and it has soothing and softening properties.

Almond oil (sometimes called “sweet almond oil”): A nut oil high in fatty acids. Nearly colorless and, odorless, almond oil is used in soaps, moisturizers, and creams. Conditioning, emollient, softens and smoothes skin. Rich in vitamins, light, absorbs easily. Good for facial and massage oils. Short shelf life!

Aloe vera gel: A concentrated form derived from the aloe vera (true aloe) plant, one of the oldest medicinal plants known. Widely revered and used by the ancient Egyptians and Native Americans, it has remarkable healing abilities because it is a natural oxygenator (drawing and holding oxygen to the skin). For this same reason, it is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available for use in cosmetics. It has a composition similar to that of human blood plasma and sea water, and because its pH is the same as human skin, it is extremely soothing and protective. It is also a natural astringent. Soothes burnt or dry skin.

Annatto: A naturally occurring red-yellow dye derived from the seeds of tropical trees.

Apple cider vinegar: Found in toners; may be used with water as an “acid rinse” to adjust the skin’s own pH.

Arnica extract: Used as an anti-irritant and to treat muscle soreness and bruising. Arnica extract is a proven carcinogen sometimes found in talc. DO NOT USE THIS INGREDIENT IN FORMULATIONS.

Ascorbic acid: Vitamin C. An antioxidant that is also used as a pH adjuster and as a preservative in cosmetics.

Ascorbyl palmitate: An ester of ascorbic acid. An antioxidant for oils and fats; keeps products fresh and prevents color change. See Ascorbic acid.

Avocado oil: Natural oil from avocados that is rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. An excellent skin conditioner and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin; nonocclusive. High in vitamins A, D &E, excellent for mature, cracked skin, revitalizing, healing, regenerates cells. Good for massage and facial oils.

Azulene: An essential oil derived from German camomile (Matricaria chamomilla). It is an excellent anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and detoxifier. Extremely calming and soothing to the skin.

Basil oil: Ocimum basilicum belongs to the labiate botanical family, which contains the largest number of medicinal plants. This essential oil contains linalol, thymol, tannins, pinene, and camphor, making it excellent for healing and soothing the skin. It has a stimulating effect on the skin’s circulation and the oil glands, and is also balancing.

Beeswax: Natural wax produced by bees. Used in a wide variety of cosmetics as an emulsifier. Can clog pores if used as a primary ingredient in a formulation.

Bentonite: A naturally occurring clay from volcanic ash. Used as an ingredient in masks and foundation makeup.

Benzaldehyde: Artificial essential oil of almond.

Benzoic acid: Naturally occurring cosmetic preservative from gum benzoin. May be irritating to eyes. See Gum benzoin.

Benzophenone: UVA blocker. Protects against ultraviolet light (from sunlight and fluorescent sources).

Bergamot: Antiseptic, healing (especially eczema, psoriasis, acne) In aromatherapy anti-depressant, appetite regulator.

Beta-carotene: See Carotene.

BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole): A synthetic antioxidant used to prevent oxidation of oils in cosmetics. Some reports of allergic reaction.

BHT (butylated hydroxythaluene): A synthetic antioxidant used to prevent oxidation of oils in cosmetics. Some reports of allergic reaction.

Bismuth oxychloride: A salt derived from the mineral bismuth that imparts a slight sheen, enabling powders to reflect light. A natural antiseptic.

Black currant oil: Good for PMS and skin inflammations, and rich in Vitamin C and gamma-linoleic acid (GLA). Use as carrier oil to 20%.

Bladderwrack extract (seaweed): Derived from the dried thallus (bulbous root) of Fucus vesiculosus, a type of seaweed. It is rich in the same trace minerals, amino acids, and other vital nutrients present in human blood plasma and therefore helps to balance and remineralize the skin.

Borage oil: High in GLA, carrier oil to 25%

Bromelain: An enzyme derived from pineapples. Digests dead protein, as in surface skin cells.

2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol: Can form carcinogens in cosmetics or on the skin. Often used in shampoos and moisturizers; avoid products with this ingredient. Sometimes called BNPD.

Butylene glycol: A humectant and solvent with some mold-inhibiting ability. Can be irritating if used as more than five percent of a formulation.

Butylparaben: Preservative used to prevent mold, fungus, and bacteria; extends shelf life of cosmetics. Nontoxic and nonirritating at .05 of 1 percent. It may be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is used in a formulation.