A continuation of  a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.

C12-15 alcohols benzoate: An emollient derived from benzoic acid, a naturally occurring preservative. Very mild.

Cajeput oil: Distilled from the flowers and leaves of the Melaleuca leucadendra tree, which grows in Malaysia. Antiseptic and antiviral, its function is to cleanse and drain toxins and excess oil from the
skin.

Calcium carbonate (chalk): Fine white powder occurring naturally in limestone, oyster shells, and marble. Used in powders and toothpastes. Also used as an antacid, opacifier, whitener, neutralizer, filler.

Calcium silicate: Anticaking and opacifying agent; absorbent. Used in face powders, blushers, and bath salts.

Calendula: Marigold. Topical anti-inflammatory, antioxidant. Commonly used to treat acne and problem skin. Mildly antiseptic, cleansing, soothing, healing, softens and smoothes.

Calendula oil: Antiseptic properties, soothes inflamed skin, especially cuts and bruises. Can be used in skin cream, also used as single carrier oil or in blends with others.

Camomile oil: Distilled from the small yellow flowers of several varieties of camomile, including German (Matricaria chamomilla) and Roman (Anthemis nobilis). German camomile contains a high percentage of azulene, a powerful healer that is extremely soothing to the skin. In aromatherapy, camomile is used to balance female energy and reproductive organs.

Camphor: Distilled from the wood of the camphor tree, Icinnamomum camphora. It is a natural antiseptic and analgesic that helps to calm the skin and reduce redness. Can be absorbed through the skin and is highly toxic. Use in moderation.

Candelilla wax: A hard wax obtained from the candelilla plant, used as an occlusive and binder in lipsticks and creams.

Caprylic acid: Fatty acid used as an emulsifier. Found in milk and sweat and synthesized from coconut oil.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride: Barrier agent, emollient, and solvent used in foundations, eye shadow, creams, and lotions. Oily liquid from plants, vegetable oils, dairy fats, and sweat. Synthesized from
coconut oil or palm kernel oil.

Carbomer: Gelling agent. Synthetic polymer used to thicken, stabilize, and promote shelf life of cosmetics. Can be irritating.

Carmine: A natural pigment derived from the dried female insect, Coccus cacti; used as dye. Used in higher concentrations than 2% of a recipe can cause a really nasty flavor.

Carnauba wax: From the Brazilian wax palm. Used as a barrier agent and texturizer in lipsticks, deodorant sticks, and depilatories.

Carotene (beta-carotene): Present in quantity in a variety of orange/ yellow fruits and vegetables, such as carrots, cantaloupe, and papaya. Carotene has an orange color that oxidizes (fades) when exposed to sunlight. It is converted into vitamin A by the body, and is used for its cellular renewal and healing abilities.

Canageenan: Sometimes called “red algae,” it is derived from the type of seaweed known as “Irish moss.” It is a natural emulsifier and thickening agent and has a soothing effect on the skin.

Carrot oil: Natural extract of carrot used as a colorant. High in betacarotene; healing and soothing to the skin.

Castor oil: From the castor bean. Acts as a barrier agent, emollient, and lubricant. Used in lipsticks and moisturizers.

Cedarwood oil: From red cedar. It is a strong antiseptic and has a calming effect on the skin. Avoid if pregnant.

Cellulose gum: Gum from cellulose, the cell wall and structural component of plants. Used as a thickener and emulsifier in creams and lotions and as a film former in lipsticks.

Ceresin wax: From ozokerite, a naturally occurring mineral wax. Used as an emulsifier, hair conditioner, and thickener.

Ceteareth-20: A compound made from stearyl alcohol (solid alcohols mixed with stearol, a derivative of stearic acid) and coconut or palm oil. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Cetearyl alcohol: Not an “alcohol” such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol. It is an emulsifying wax made by combining fatty alcohols derived from vegetable sources. Used as an emulsifier and emollient, it is not
drying to the skin.

Cetyl alcohol: Not an “alcohol” such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol. Yellowish white flakes with no odor or toxicity, it is used as an emollient and emulsifier. When sebum (the moisturizer produced by the body) is synthetically formulated in a laboratory, cetyl alcohol is added as one of the constituents because it closely resembles a component of sebum.

Cetyl lactate: An emollient.

Cetyl palmitate: Synthetic spermaceti.

Chlorophyll: The green component of plants used as a natural colorant in deodorants, creams, and toothpaste.

Cholesterol: Found in all body tissues. Acts as an emulsifying and lubricating agent in cosmetics.

Chondroitin sulfate: A factor of the hyaluronic acid complex that is bioengineered (grown in a yeastlike culture in a laboratory).

Chromium hydroxide green: A coloring agent.

Cinnamon: Antiseptic, stimulant, astringent; Powder is exfoliate. CINNAMON CAN BE EXTREMELY IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. USE IN MODERATION

Citric acid: Found widely in plants and in animal tissues. Adjusts pH and acts as an antioxidant.

Citronella: An herb most commonly used as an insect repellent. In skin care, the essential oil is used to calm sebaceous glands.

Citrus oil extract: A combination of grapefruit, orange, and lemon oils.

Clary Sage: Soothing, relaxing, stress reliever.

Clove bud oil: Antiseptic; in aromatherapy: stress reliever, calmative.

Cocamide DEA: Acts as a foam stabilizer and thickener in shampoos.

Cocamide MEA: Appears most often in shampoos; can be mildly irritating.

Cocoa butter: A saturated fat with emollient properties, making it too heavy for use on facial skin. Frequently appears in suntan preparations. May produce contact sensitivities. Attracts and holds
moisture to skin, softens skin.

Coconut oil: A saturated fat. The fat molecules are large, making the
oil too “heavy” for use on facial skin.

Cocoa Powder: natural colorant

Coffee: Exfolient, soothing aroma.

Collagen: The protein that makes up the fibrous support system from which skin is made. For cosmetic use, collagen is usually derived from cows. New technology has produced collagen from soy and wheat.

Colloidal sulfur: Sulfur is a naturally occurring material. Colloidal sulfur is a mixture of sulfur and acacia, a hydrophilic (water-loving) colloid derived from the African acacia tree. This ingredient is used
for its ability to calm the skin and oil glands. Commonly found in various types of acne preparations, it helps to reduce redness, soreness, and swelling.

Comfrey and Comfrey oil: Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) traditionally has been used to treat wounds and reduce the inflammation associated with sprains and broken bones. The roots and leaves contain allantoin, a substance that helps new skin cells to grow, along with other substances that reduce inflammation and keep skin healthy. Comfrey ointments were often applied to the surface of the skin to heal bruises as well as pulled muscles and ligaments, fractures, sprains, and strains.

Historically, comfrey was also used to treat gastrointestinal illness. However, the herb contains dangerous substances called pyrrolizidine alkaloids that are highly toxic to the liver and can cause death. In July 2001, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration required that dietary supplement manufacturers immediately remove all oral comfrey products from the market. The United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, and Germany also have banned the sale of oral products containing comfrey.

Pyrrolizidine alkaloids are also absorbed through the skin, and harmful amounts may build up in the body. It is recommended that no formulations use comfrey in light of current research.

Comilower extract: Extracted from the common flower, bachelor’s button (Centaurea cyanus). It contains allantoin, potassium, calcium, and vitamins C and K. Because of its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, it is traditionally used for compresses around the eyes.

Corn starch: A “starchy” white powder derived from corn that is very soothing to the skin. If you have an allergy to corn, you may be allergic to this ingredient.

Cucumber extract: Cucumber is a natural anti-inflammatory and has an extremely soothing effect on the skin.

Cypress oil: Possibly the most sacred, ancient essential oil, it was widely used in religious ceremonies for its spiritually “opening” effect. Distilled from the bark of the cypress tree, it is a natural astringent and restorative. As a vasoconstrictor, it also helps to shrink capillaries and calm cupreous skin.

Deionized water: “Deionization” means that all the ions of soluble salts have been removed. Calcium, magnesium, sulfur, etc., can interfere with formulations and “deactivate” active ingredients.

Dichlorobenzyl alcohol: A type of alcohol used as a preservative. Nondrying to the skin.

Dihydroxyacetone: The “tanning agent” in many self- tanning formulas. It is actually a keto sugar that reacts with protein on the surface of the skin to create the look of a tan. The molecules in this ingredient are too large to penetrate the skin any deeper than the top- most layer. Since it is unable to react in any way with the melanin in the skin, this ingredient does not afford the protection from sun that a real tan would.

Dimethicone: An oil derived from silicone (which is derived from silica, a substance that occurs naturally in rocks and sand). Dimethicone is used to facilitate smooth application of a product, and
helps to soften the skin.

Dimethicone copolyol: A more waterproof form of dimethicone that adheres better to skin and hair.

Diodyl adipate: One component of an ester blend of oils designed to effectively penetrate the skin. It is synthetically derived and nonirritating to the skin or eyes.

Disodium EDTA: Sequestering agent. See EDTA.

EDTA (ethylene diamine tetreacetic acid): A synthetic chemical that removes metals or mineral ions from a solution. Used as a preservative. Can be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is
used in a formulation.

Elastin: Animal protein found in the dermal layers of skin that functions to maintain skin elasticity. When applied topically, there is no proof that this highly insoluble protein has the ability to
improve the elasticity of the skin.

Ethylparaben: A preservative. See Parabens.

Evening primrose oil: A source of vitamin E and gamma linoleic acid. Helps to regenerate skin cells. Excellent skin conditioner for dry skin; rich in GLA. Treats eczema. Useful for facial and massage
oils, use as 10% or more carrier oil.