Creme to Powder eyeshadow formulation
Creme-to-Powder eyeshadow is a relative newcomer to the cosmetics market. It has the lasting power of previous generation’s creme shadows, but without the creasing and goopy feel. It’s a semi-solid shadow that can be applied using your finger or a foam applicator, but best results are achieved by using a brush.
When loading the brush, it has the resistance and texture of creme or cosmetic crayon base, but it applies like a powder. On the skin the product retains the powdered feel, while giving a long-lasting wear and the vibrant colors that were previously only a factor of cremes and cosmetic crayons.
Note that colors of creme shadows can be much more dramatic on skin than powdered colors, because of the color load on the applicator. It may take some practice to get a subtle application.
These ingredients are not available at the corner store, but are readily available from suppliers who service the boutique and hobby manufacturing markets. (The names in italics are the brands that I used in testing, but other brands are available and may suit your purpose or budget better. The non-italic names are the INCI designation for the ingredient, which may make it easier to source for supply.)
Cream-to-Powder Eyeshadow
Phase Phase A
Phase Phase B
Phase C
Procedure:
- Melt phase A at 85-87°C.
- Once phase A is completely melted, add phase B and homogenize for 15 minutes.
- Add Phase C and blend thoroughly.
- Pour or scoop into packaging while still warm.
- Smooth out tops with spatula when solidified.
Pigment Blend Suggestions (to match the model above):
Gold: 50% Sunprizma Super Gold; 50% Sunpearl Gold.
Dark Purple: 20% SunPrizma Concord Crush; 42% SunPrizma Cherry Marmalade; 22%; Spectraflex Focus Violet; 16% Sunprizma Sapphire Night.