Soapy Hollow

Soapy Hollow

Where cleanliness equals science

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Making yummy soft pretzels

Igor and I just finished making soft pretzels from a recipe that we adapted from Alton Brown. I only wish I could figure out how to make Vista work with my real camera, as this pocket camera doesn’t take great shots.

But, the pretzels were fantastic, and the recipe was easy enough that Igor (who is 6) was able to do all but the “hot work”.

pretzels02

Testing eye gel formulation

Cecropia obtusa Trécul

Cecropia obtusa Trécul

Cecropia obtusa Bark Extract is known for its capacity to reduce cellulite, which also results from restricted blood flow and stagnation of lymphatic fluids (congestion of connective tissue and accumulation of toxins) and there are indications that it activates the lipolysis (elimination of fat). The theory behind formulations such as these is that eye bags are formed by fat accumulating under the eyes, as a result of age-related skin loosening and water retention in the tissue, a sign of a bad lymphatic drainage. Ergo, a formulation is designed to reduce the water and fat held in the weakened tissues. The colorants are added as light refractors, making darker circles seem lighter.


Ingredients

%

Function

Phase I

Aqua

92.2

Glycerin

5

Moisturizing

Elestab® 3334 - See Data Sheet

1.5

Preservative

Xanthan Gum

0.3

Preservative

Sodium Polyacrylate

0.6

Sensorial Polymer

Iron
Oxide (and) Mica

0.05

Colorant

Mica
(and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide

0.05

Colorant

Phase II

Eye resolution® LS 9509 - See Data Sheet

3

Active: Puffiness and eye bag reducer

Procedures : Emulsify ingredients of phase I at room temperature until a homogeneous gel is obtained. Add phase II while mixing.
Viscosity: Brookfield RVT, 23°C (Needle C, 5 rpm, with Helipath) 52,000 cps

pH: 6.5

All products in the text marked with an ® are trademarks of the Cognis group.

Biological Active info:

INCI Name : Cecropia obtusa Bark Extract

Dose of use : 1-3%

Aspect: syrupy amber liquid with a weak odor

Solubility : soluble in water, insoluble in fats and oils.

New Page with How To instructions

I’ve put a permanent page, available at the top of the left navigation and the top of the page, that will list all the “How To” projects that I’m moving from instructables back to here.

So far, the following How To projects are available:

Bath and body projects:

Food projects

  • How to make baguettes by hand
  • How to make banana bread
  • How to make White Chocolate Pistachio Pomegranate Truffles
  • Squirmy Wormy Pie

How to Make Bath Bombs (Instructable that was moved)

As I’ve noted before, Instructables has changed their business model, reducing access to content to non-paid visitors.  Since all of my work was published under a Creative Commons non-commercial license, I’ve removed it from Instructables and am republishing it here, so the content stays free. Keeping in mind folks with data stream limits, I’ve used smaller images, but you can click through them to larger versions if you wish, or you may see the entire project folder here for super large images.

How to make bath bombs:
4 ounce bath bomb (fizzy)

Everybody loves bath bombs. It is like taking a bath in champagne, only without the show tunes and chorus boys. They are fairly simple to make, keeping in mind that the strangest things can make a batch go weird; humidity, room temperature, oil viscosity, the moon rising in the seventh house of Aquarius . . . they are a mysterious wonder.

For this recipe, I am using ingredients that are pretty common, or easy to find in most areas. Essential oils can be found in small amounts at places like health food stores and craft stores often carry essentials and fragrances. Just make sure, if you buy fragrance oil, that you are buying “body safe” oils and not stuff for candles or oil warmers.  Citric Acid can be found at health food stores, brewer’s stores, and online at various retailers.

So, let’s start with a basic recipe in two parts.

Dry ingredients: (By Weight, as measured on a scale.)

  • Baking Soda - 8 ounces
  • Citric Acid - 4 ounces
  • Corn Starch - 4 ounces
  • Salts - 4 ounces ( in these pictures, I used Dead Sea Salts, but mineral salts work too, and are easier to find and significantly less expensive.)

Wet Ingredients:

  • Water - .75 tbsp
  • Essential or Fragrance Oil - 2 tsp (for these I used a Ginger Peach.)
  • Oil - 2.5 tbsp (I used cherry kernel, but any light vegetable oil will work.)
  • Food coloring - 1 or 2 drops. (Your color will look very dark in the emulsion, but will be light in the fizzies, so as to not leave rings around the tub. For this batch I used one drop red and two drops yellow. The final result will be very light peach.)

step 1 - Blend the Dry Ingredients
Begin by putting all of your dry ingredients into a big bowl. Glass is best because it is non-reactive. Whisk or pestle those pesky clumps out. You want a fairly smooth consistency throughout the entire mix.
Dry ingredients

step 2 - Mix liquid and blend dry and liquids together
Blend your wet ingredients together. I usually use a small jar and shake it up. Don’t worry about separation too much, you are not going to get a full emulsion. Then, while whisking, slowly add small amounts of the liquid to your dry ingredients. Here we see my faithful Igor prepare to pour.

Add liquid to dry

step 3 - Try to avoid creating volcanoes
If the mixture starts to foam, you are adding the liquid too fast. Quickly whisk the reacting ingredients into the nonreactive part and you should be able to stop the reaction. I add about a teaspoon at a time. When all of the wet ingredients have been added, you should have a mixture with the consistency of slightly damp sand. It should clump together when you squish it.
All mixed

step 4 - Mold quickly
Once your mixture is together, you have a pretty limited amount of time in which to get it into molds. To create the giant Soapy Hollow ball of bath doom, I use round christmas tree ornaments that were designed to be filled with goodies. To do a three-dimensional bomb like these, you pack each side, then overfill a tad at the center and press the two sides together.

It takes a little practice to get a feel for how much filling you need, so don’t get discouraged if your first couple fall apart. Here we see Igor holding a filled ball and wondering about child labor laws.

In mold

step 5 - Unmold and let dry
You don’t need to leave them in the mold for very long, and in fact can tap them out as soon as you fill them. These are four bombs we made with this batch.

4 ounce bath bomb (fizzy)

You can use all sorts of things to make your bombs; muffin tins, ice cube trays, candy molds, Aunt Magnolia’s denture case . . . whatever makes you happy.

This batch didn’t make quite enough for five bombs, and the humidity levels made the batch start to puff up, so I quickly stuffed what was left of the batch into my “bath cookies” mold. Note: When using things like silicon trays that surround the seltzer mix, or any mold with a lot of details, the mix must stay in the mold until dry, or it will crumble when you try to take it out.

Bath bombs in shapes

Once they are completely dry, store bath bombs in an airtight container or bag. High humidity will make them activate. Because we used oil and water and no preservatives, you want to use them within about 6 months. Assuming you can keep them for that long. Igor demands payment in immediate fizzy baths, but you may have better luck actually getting to *use* yours.

When you’re ready to use one, just drop it into a warm bath, and relax.

Instructables institutes a pay for content model

Because Instructables.com has newly decided to cripple the accounts of  non-paying “Pro” members,I have pulled my instructables, and replaced them with a “of this I do not approve” notice.  I published under a a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License, -, and I cannot allow my content to be co-opted and put behind a pay wall.  I will repost the projects here, as well as linking to PDFs where people can download the projects. Read on for more info about what is changing at instructables.com.

In a move reminiscent of CDDB, and Salon.com, Eric Wilhelm announced last month that Instructables was moving to a closed pay-only community model. The model has since been implemented, and the timer is ticking for legacy accounts. After 90 days from implementation rollover, people who do not pay for an Instructables “Pro” account will no longer be able to:

1) View entire instructables at once

2) Print out instructables in PDF

3) Have a “favorites” list of instructables.

4)View “secondary” images in instructable steps

This means that if an instructable has more than one image in a given step, you will only be able to see the first image, and thumbnails of the other images. If the author left important detail in the images, that information is lost.

Furthermore, printing an instructable is now virtually impossible. You can, if you like, print out each step separately including all the headers, sidebars, ads, footers, comments, and other fluff, but that results in a hard to read page (try it - the layout is not conducive to printing) and a sheaf of paper for a 5 step instructable.

This poses problems for authors who now have to either rework their instructables so viewers from Google (which accounts for a substantial portion of their viewership) and others can actually use it. Otherwise some important details may be lost in secondary images for a significant number of instructables viewers.

I’m afraid that Instructables, by removing basic features that are necessary to follow an instructable, is ultimately going to decline and take a lot of really great content with them.

crème de caviar pour le visage

Facial cream with caviar extract

crème de caviar pour le visage

Working on testing formulations with some new to the market biological actives.  This one is a decadently rich night cream that contains  Laboratoires Serobiologiques actives.

  1. Complex Caviar: extracted elements of fish roe and caviar combined with oligo-peptides from actin and fucus vesiculosus extract.
  2. Phytocoothetm: canola phytosterols with moisturizing and skin barrier strengthening effect.
  3. Arganyltm: flavonoids extracted from leaves of the argan tree that inhibit collagenase to protect collagen from destruction.
  4. HSP Balance: germinated rye seed extract enhances the skin’s capacity for self-defense against environmental stress.
Ingredients INCI % Function
Phase One

Emulgade® PL 68/50

Cutina® GMS-V

Cegesoft® C24

Cetiol® Sensoft

Cegesoft® PS 6

Phytosoothe® LS 9766

Myritol® 312

Cosmedia® SP

Cetearyl Glucoside (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Vegetable Oil

Brassica Campestris
(Rapeseed) Sterols (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride

Sodium Polyacrylate

3.00

1.00

5.00

3.00

3.00

2.00

2.00

1.00

O/W cream base SE

Consistency giving factor

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Active

Emollient

Sensorial Polymer

Phase Two

Water

Glycerin

Keltrol CGT

Elestab® 388

Eumulgin® SG

HSP Balance® LS 9587

Water

Glycerin

Xanthan Gum

Propylene glycol (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphenesin (and) Methylparaben

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract (and)
Dextrin

66.1

5.00

0.10

2.50

0.70

1.00

Moisturizer

Thickener

Preservative

Co-emulsifier O/W

Active


Phase Three

Arganyl® LS 9781


Complex® Caviar LS 9747

Citric Acid 10%

Perfume

Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract

Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Hydrolyzed Actin (and)Hydrolysed Roe (lump-sucker) (and) Hydrolysed Roe
(sturgeon) (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Propylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Fragrance

2.00


2.00


0.40

0.20

ctive

Active

pH adjustment

fragrance

PROCEDURE:

  1. Heat the oil phase I to 75-80°C and mix homogeneously.

  2. Heat phase II to 75-80°C and add to the oil phase while stirring.

  3. Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion.

  4. Avoid incorporation of air. If necessary homogenize with a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) approx. 55°C.

  5. Add phase III below 40°C while mixing. Stir while cooling until room temperature.

The result is a rich and thick cream that should have a shelf life of about 24 months if properly stored.

APG: A Green Success Story

I did a lot of product formula testing with Cognis products.  One of the things I really liked about using their core ingredients was their dedication to green and sustainable development.  As well, their quality was outstanding, their supply chain was fast and dedicated, and their scientists were always available to answer questions and help tweak formulas.

All that said as an introduction to a recent whitepaper: Alkyl polyglucosides represent a solution for manufacturers to combine efficiency with ecological congeniality and human safety in the final product.

The green movement continues to grow as more consumers are becoming aware of the impact that the products they use have on themselves, society and the environment. This new green consciousness is making consumers change their consumption habits and thus their purchasing criteria. In concrete terms, consumers are increasingly interested in products that contain natural ingredients and respect the environment.

According to Organic Monitor, sales of natural personal care products worldwide reached approximately $7.3 billion in 2007. In the home care sector, a 2004 study by Green Marketing Inc., revealed that 69% of respondents preferred natural detergents to those derived from synthetic ingredients  because they are commonly considered to be safer, especially where children are concerned. Along with environmental sensitivity, consumers expect products to be effective and high-quality. These expectations are forcing manufacturers to review their product lines and to develop innovative, environmental-friendly solutions that are both efficient and cost-effective. One example of a key ingredient being used to develop new products which satisfy the consumers “green” consciousness are alkyl polyglucosides. Alkyl polyglucosides can be used in personal and home care applications as well as in those for the I&I sector.

A Green Surfactant Emerges

Alkyl polyglucosides are nonionic surfactants with origins in the 19th century. For a long time, they were only of academic interest. In 1893, the German chemist Emil Fischer synthesized alkyl polyglucosides by combining fatty alcohols and glucose obtained from coconut or palm kernel oil and corn. However, it took almost 100 years to progress from simple laboratory experiments to the industrial production of alkyl polyglucoside surfactants and their use in formulations.

In 1989, Cognis, at the time still part of the Henkel Group, succeeded in designing an industrial production process for alkyl polyglucoside surfactants.1 They were originally developed for the home care and body wash segments. Nowadays the applications for alkyl polyglucoside surfactants are as diverse as the products on the shelves of retailers, drugstores, and beauty shops: From baby foam-bath products to facial cleansing lotions, shampoos, and oral care products, from wipes to laundry detergents, hard surface cleaners, and I&I cleaning applications.

Alkyl polyglucoside surfactants are obtained from renewable, plant-derived raw materials and therefore are suitable for products where mildness to human skin, environmental compatibility and high performance are a must. Alkyl polyglucosides have been extensively tested in various eco-toxicological studies.2 No environmentally harmful intermediates are formed even during mineralization to carbon dioxide and water; nor do the surfactants release any undesirable by-products such as nitrogen, ethylene oxide, or preservatives. For all these reasons, many formulators see alkyl polyglucosides as the ideal “green” surfactants which add value to their products and help them to distinguish these products from conventional ones.

“Greenness” Meets Mildness

Companies such as Yves Rocher, a cosmetic producer of botanical beauty care products, have been using alkyl polyglucosides since the beginning of the 1990s. Questioned about their preference for APG, Stéphanie Collet, Lab Manager for the Toiletteries Lab at Yves Rocher stated: “We regard alkyl polyglucosides as mild, “green” and biodegradable surfactants which offer a benefit for consumers in terms of very mild formulations combined with an extraordinary environmental profile.”

Dirk Develter, R&D Manager of Ecover, an international company active in the production of ecological cleaners and detergents, confirms: “In comparison to other surfactants, alkyl polyglucosides are very much in line with our concept of sustainability, including interesting features such as full renewability, low aquatic toxicity and full biodegradability without stable metabolites.”

In fact, within the framework of international regulations concerning eco-friendly products, alkyl polyglucosides meet the requirements for highly accepted green labels such as Ecocert, the EU Eco-Flower, Green Seal and many others.

In addition to their ecological footprint, alkyl polyglucosides are not toxic or harmful to human health and show a lower skin irritation than other surfactants. It is essential that the surfactants used in personal and home care products have minimal irritation potential because it is inevitable that these products come into contact with the skin. A comparative study.3 of various surfactants showed that alkyl polyglucosides possess superior mildness compared to other surfactants found in the market, confirming the well-known association of “greenness” with mildness.

Two of those tests, the red blood cell test (RBC; Pape et al., 1999; INVITTOX Porotcol Nr. 37) in Figure 1 and the epicutaneous patch testing (ECT; 24 hour occlusive patch test) Figure 2, assess the mucous membrane/ocular irritation potential of different surfactants and the primary skin irritation in humans respectively.

Fig. 1: Figure 1: Ocular/mucous membrane Irritation potential: Results of a HET-CAM Test (3% AS; pH 6.5)

As surfactants at higher concentrations or with an extreme pH make irritation more possible, the surfactants were tested at the same pH and at the same active substance content. To make sure that microbial contamination does not occur in the absence of preservatives, the pH of alkyl polyglucosides is adjusted to approximately 12.

Fig 2: Results a 24 hour occlusive epicutaneous human patch test (2% AS; pH 6.5; n=21)

However, home and personal care products should not only be mild but also have a high cleansing efficacy. Alkyl polyglucosides can satisfy these requirements based on their exceptional skin compatibility and deep pore cleansing properties for personal care products as well as exceptional cleaning performance in home care and I&I products without leaving residues on the cleaned surfaces. One property that goes hand in hand with the cleansing process is the formation of foam. Consumers perceive the formation of foam as an inherent part of the cleaning phase in personal care products such as shampoos and shower gels as well as in home care products such as laundry detergents and manual dishwashing liquids. Alkyl polyglucosides, alone or in combination with other surfactants, produce foam with a good balance between volume and stability in all the above-mentioned applications.

Table 1: Description of the surfactants tested in this study

Additional benefits that formulators regard as positive in alkyl polyglucosides include the absence of ethoxylates or sulfates in their composition and their stability over a wide pH spectrum as described by Stéphanie Collet from Yves Rocher: “Alkylpolyglucosides allow the possibility to formulate transparent products through a broad range of pH values”.

Dirk Develter (Ecover) also stated: “Alkyl polyglucosides are stable over a wide pH range, which makes them suitable for use in highly alkaline I&I cleaners as well as in acid cleaners without the anaerobic degradation issues of sulfonated surfactants.”

Conclusions

In the light of the green movement, consumers will continue to favor products with natural and environmentally sound ingredients. As a consequence, the demand for green surfactants will continue to escalate in terms of raw materials. Alkyl polyglucosides are nonionic surfactants obtained from renewable, plant-derived raw materials which enable the formulation of modern personal and home care as well as I&I products. Their ideal environmental and skin compatibility as well as high performance profiles meet consumers’ demands within the green trend perfectly. Manufacturers following the green movement acknowledge the benefits that alkyl polyglucosides have brought to their formulations, supporting them until today to clearly differentiate their products from others. Innovative companies actively offering green solutions, such as Yves Rocher in the personal care market and Ecover in the home care and I&I segment, confirm that alkyl polyglucosides are a must when aiming for the best performance, especially in green products.

References

1. Hill, K., von Rybinski W., Stoll G. (1997) Alkyl polyglycosides: Technology, properties and application. Ed. VCH, Germany. pp 1-7;71-130.

2. Willing A., Messinger H., Aulmann W. (2004) “Ecology and Toxicology of Alkyl polyglucosides”. In: Handbook of Detergents. Ed. U.Zoller, Marcel Dekker, New York, pp. 487-521.

3. Mehling A., Kleber M., Hensen H. (2007) Comparative studies on the ocular and dermal irritation potential of surfactants. Food Chem. Toxicol. 45, 747-58

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